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How do you become a farmer? For us, it was by accident.

written by

Michelle Sroka

posted on

March 3, 2022

“Did you always want to be a farmer?”

We get this question frequently. I find it amusing, because the answer is NO WAY. In fact, I said something along those lines when Joe first floated the idea: “Absolutely not.”

We fell into farming by accident. Part of it stemmed from the tradition of the Catholic Worker, which has always had a “back to the land” model alongside its emphasis on hospitality. Part of it was practical, as I was pregnant with our second child, and our family of three was living in a single bedroom in our Catholic Worker house in Durham.

But we’ve found along the way that it did turn out to be a vocation. Our friends who initially sparked conversations about farming tired of it and returned to the city. But Joe and I slowly began to learn more, do more, and dream more. Both of us felt unsettled in the lives we had built and models of success we tried to emulate. We hadn’t possessed the imagination to think of stewarding the land as the answer to that questioning, but over time we have come to see it that way.

I’ve been thinking about this over the last few weeks, as we prepare for the farm to ramp up again. Next week we’ll receive our first shipment of broiler chickens. Soon piglets will be foraging in the woods, and we’ll be moving the cows around the pastures, trying to catch up with the cool-season grass before it goes to seed.

In some ways, it’s exciting. But in other ways, even if we love our life and choose it, there’s still a bit of dread. The days are hot and long. It’s hard to wrangle kids and get out for chores in the early morning. The work is seemingly never-ending, blending into nights and weekends. And if you have any romantic notions of farming, try moving the pig paddock through thorny wild blackberries and invasive vines in the middle of July.

And yet we continue. We’ve oriented our entire lives around the farm, homeschooling the kids and bringing them with us on the chores. It’s a chaotic life, difficult and stressful and impossible for some to understand. I do long, on many summer weekends, to return to a life where I wake up and walk to the coffee shop, with nothing else pressing on my time. But I also know that we would be unhappy without our life at the farm, despite its responsibilities and demands.

So, as we begin this next farming “season”, I’d like to tell you how privileged we feel to grow your food. In many ways, it feels like we’re simply getting the opportunity to live out our dream. But we also take the responsibility to grow the best food possible seriously. We think of ourselves as a homestead first – as growing nourishing food that is the highest quality for our farm community, and only sharing that food with others when it meets our standards. And each year, we learn a little bit more about how to improve.

I can’t wait to share our stories and lessons from this season with you – the good, the bad, and sometimes, in the case of navigating wild blackberries, the bloody.

More from the blog

Can we care about animals - and still raise them for food?

I probably spend the most time with the pigs on our farm. Part of this is practical: since pigs can’t sweat, we spray them down twice a day to help them wallow in the mud and stay cool.  But part of it is emotional, too. I enjoy being around the pigs. When there’s a lot on my mind, or I’ve spent too much time on the computer and need to get outside, wandering over to that week’s pig paddock is one of the ways I can clear my mind.  Pigs are highly emotive and responsive. When I spray them down with the hose, they like to sit back on their haunches, prick back their ears, and snap playfully at the water as it showers down on them. And then joyfully roll around in the mud afterward, of course.  But they’re responsive to humans in general, too. They are naturally curious and, in the case of our heritage breed Red Wattles, gentle. They’ll come up and sniff you, rub their mud-streaked bellies over you, and let you scratch their ears.  And maybe this is the part where you start to wonder: But aren’t you raising them for food?  Why would you want an emotional connection to an animal that you are raising for food?  I understand where this question is coming from. I was a vegetarian for nearly a decade because I didn’t like the thought of killing animals, especially within the framework of our industrial food system.  But actually, it isn’t a problem or moral quandary for me. Yes, we grow fond of and attached to our animals, including our pigs.  Yes, we still send them to the butcher or process them on our farm for food. And yes, this still makes sense to me.  I would gently suggest that the idea that we shouldn’t have any emotional connection to our food - that we can only eat meat that comes from animals we withhold our emotions or affection from - is a sign of our disconnection to the way food is grown.  That is, after all, one of the premises of industrial agriculture. Designate animals with one sole purpose - “becoming food” - and then shut them away in buildings, cramped quarters, or far away from humans who might interact with them beyond the farmer.  And the farmer, too, should be as disconnected as possible. After all, this is an efficient machine.  The problem, from a regenerative perspective, is that growing food is never just about growing food. Food is the gift you receive at the end of your work, but it’s the work itself - and the consequences of the work beyond the food - that is the point.  The work, on our farm, is caring for the land. That means working alongside animals to nurture native plants, clear forest areas to make existing trees healthier, and create habitats for birds, pollinators, and wildlife.  And that means becoming attentive and thoughtful - to animals and to the land. Watching, learning, and yes, developing bonds with the habitats you’re nurturing and the animals that are helping you do so.  Is it sad to load up animals and take them to the butcher at the end of the season? Yes, it often can be. But I don’t feel guilty about it. I know that we’ve given them the best life possible, and that we’ve partnered with them to leave our farm better than we found it each year.  And if that doesn’t make sense, that’s okay. I’m not saying that everyone has to agree with me. I’d simply like to advocate for a way of farming and consuming meat that includes this experience - one of affection and bonding between animals and humans.  After all, this is one of the many ways we try to do things differently on our farm. We don’t want to just provide you with food that meets your standards - non-GMO, no vaccines, no antibiotics, grass-fed and pasture-raised.  We also want to help you reconnect with that food. And part of that is knowing the animals, hearing stories about them, and yes, maybe even having an emotional connection with them, despite the end goal of providing meat to you.